... comes nowhere near as bad as where this surfer has found himself. Sometimes, a photo is taken which you just can't take your eyes away from, be it a perfect mind-surf barrel in the Mentawaiis, or something hideously heavy. (Remember Dre's wipeout at Chopes in 2000?) But this shot takes the biscuit ... an unknown standup about to take the heaviest beating I've ever seen. Let's imagine the horror: You arrive at the shoreline at Puerto Escondido to find it 12ft and angry. Now, this isn't a normal 12ft, it's Puerto 12ft. The heaviest beachbreak in the world, and it's in no mood for visitors. You doff your cap and paddle out, without a leash, to try your luck. At some point, you paddle for a beast, try to get to your feet, fail, find yourself hung up just in front of the lip and freefall 15ft into the flats twisted upside down with a thick heaving Puerto lip about to detonate BETWEEN YOUR LEGS. Oh, next stop on the IBA tour? You guessed it.
- July 28, 2011