[caption id="attachment_4060" align="alignnone" width="620"] Photo: Katie Myers[/caption]
Dave Speller has been testing out Core Bodyboards in some of the worlds best waves recently. We caught up with him for the low down on what has been happening.
Interview by Aaron Parsons.
What have you been up to Dave?
I have been in South-West Java for a month and following that I was in the Philippines for another month. I don't want to give too much away but in Java I spent my time in a small town an hour away from Pacitan. And then in the Philippines I was in Siargao surfing Cloud 9. All in all I have had a very good two months of surfing!
Tells us about the wave in Java?
Basically imagine a skatepark for bodyboarding! On the one side of the bay there’s an amazing right hander and on the other is an even more amazing left. The left is by far the better wave. It has either a super thick barrel or an air section on steroids... sometimes both! As with every wave however there are pitfalls. In this case it’s the ugly end section, which you’re hitting by the way, or the rock that sticks up on the inside. It seems to always be causing casualties. My friend, Phil, was unlucky enough to meet the end section with his face! He ended up with some terribly deep gashes on his cheeks and lip and what also looked like a broken nose. I don't know how I didn't hit the bottom. The right hander is quite different. It seems to hold best at about shoulder high to head and a half but can apparently hold much larger when the swell is of another direction.
[caption id="attachment_4061" align="alignnone" width="620"] Photo: Yurena Hernandez[/caption]
How about the crowd?
I’d say we were really lucky with the crowd. Usually we had around a dozen of us in. There was a good crew including some of the younger pro’s from Portugal also some solid riders from Tenerife, Puerto Rico, Reunion Island and Australia. On the busiest day there were around twenty people in, most of them surfers, however most of the standup crew leave once they see its such a short wave, not to say it isn't a surfing wave, some of the best barrels I saw were from standup surfers!
Who were you travelling with? Did they get good waves?
I was with one of my best mates from home Phil Le Nevue and another two good friends Anthony Haytread and his girlfriend Katie Myers. Phil seems to always get good waves, despite not being able to surf much in the last year he still ripped every wave apart and with style! Ant also had amazing waves, always going deep and committing to big sections. Out of the three of us Ant had the best barrel of the trip hands down! It wasn't big enough for Katie so she very kindly filmed us surfing!
What are the locals like? Any of them surfing?
Some of the friendliest people I have been around. Always wanting to say hello and give you a massive smile. Surfing is a really knew phenomenon in this area of Java and that reflects in their whole approach to you - they’re so intrigued and interested in you! There is one chap called Eddie who hosts an Indonesian smorgasbord every night, he has to be the friendliest kind hearted person I have ever met. Even though we weren't staying with him he would still check in with us to make sure we were safe and happy. The day Phil kissed the reef he dropped everything and drove to the other side of the village just to check he was ok. Top bloke and a big contrast to some of my previous experiences in Indo and my other travel experiences in general, if anyone reading this ends up there ask for ‘Eddies home stay’! I didn't see any of the local chaps surfing, although I'm sure at some point they will be and within no time they will be owning their hometown wave!
Ups and Downs!
Up - One invert I did in the last week, it felt really big! Down - The cockerel that woke ups up every morning at 3AM !
[caption id="attachment_4063" align="alignnone" width="620"] Photo: Adrien Payet[/caption]
You decided on the Barber PP model from Core, how does it hold up in Indo and how has it handled? !
Correct, I had the PP crescent model in a 42. I was riding that particular board for two months in West Oz before Indo and I have to say I’m very happy with how well it held up! It handles incredibly well in a variety of waves ranging from waist high slop to big heavy barrels. I’ve landed some of my biggest moves so far on this board. Totally recommended for any type of surfing!
How was the board at Cloud 9, the water temperature is about 30 degrees right?
Yeah it’s actually too hot, I felt like I was going to pass out half of the time haha. The board was obviously not as stiff but was still great to ride. By this time my body had taken such a pounding so it was nice to land inverts in the flats and not feel the impact as much. I think the board would be perfect if it was brand new in that temperature but by the time I got there I had three months of intense surfing on it so obviously it was going to be looser. But when it was big and heavy it was relieving to have a softer board! Ultimately it survived well, I’m really stoked with it! Hopefully I can keep riding them!
How was the Philippines? !
Really good, as I said earlier it’s very warm and for me I found myself to be getting exhausted quickly. I was there for a month and had waves all the way through, however the first two weeks were the best. I was lucky to get Cloud 9 as good as it gets, it’s the most perfect, fun wave and when everything is right it feels so safe to drop into a set wave. The area around the wave is somewhat developed and there are really good places to eat which was a nice change to Java.
How was the crowd and the general crew around? !
The crowd can be awful! When it’s head high and high tide there can be forty people plus. It’s not called Crowd 9 for nothing haha. Although if you’re switched on and not going out on the beers you can get quite fun sessions and surf sometimes with just you and your friends. This year there was an awesome crew, almost everyone was really friendly and there were some really good surfers and bodyboarders to surf with. The whole thing was really enjoyable!
Are there any other good waves apart from Cloud 9?
There are however they require a bit of exploration. Half way up the island and around the north of the island are some great setups.
So know I take it your heading home or back to Australia? What’s your plans?
Well I’m currently en-route back to Margaret River, my plan is stay at least a month and then I’ll either come home or stay for another year. Long term plans will be trips to Hawaii and Tahiti and do as much surfing and competing as I can along the way. And obviously a career at some point ha... !
[caption id="attachment_4062" align="alignnone" width="620"] Photo: Marisol Pasquera[/caption]
Dave’s input to the 2015 Core boards range has been invaluable. Check out the new range of Core boards here
- November 15, 2014