Pic: Colin Crowther
Dave has been riding for the Bodyboard-Depot for the last four years and has spent the last three clocking up barrel time in Indonesia, Philippines, Australia, New Zealand and Tahiti. However, as we all know, all good things come to an end… or lead to other good things (sometimes). We recently caught up with Dave to find out whats been going on this past summer.
A summer in Jersey…so does that mean lots of Bodyboarding?
Yeah, it does! Overall it’s been a pretty good summer for surf. We’ve had some classic days, although far between, the periods in-between have been filled with lots of fun onshore days! The last three years have made me very wave snobby so sometimes i’ve found it a little harder to get motivated for the smaller days, but as soon as the sea became warm enough for the shorty i was really keen again.
What gear are you using at the moment?
Im using a Core Barber, Crescent Tail LTD with the PP core. This is a good board for me, i like the extra rigidity the PP core offers which is perfect for the summer as it’s warm and the waves are smaller and generally less powerful and i like the extra speed. For the coming winter months I'm going to move away from the PP core to the Barber PXS Core core as i like the extra flex. Ill keep using the crescent tail model as it gives more control in bigger heavier waves. I'm thinking of giving the Bat tailed board another go during those smaller summer days next summer, they are so fast, i remember being able to land anything with a bat tail so that would be nice in smaller waves.
Pic: Louise Bennett Jones
What spots work well during the summer?
Mostly everywhere works well. There is one reef called Petite Port which resides to the south of the westerly facing bay which is normally a sure thing during the summer. I this season i’ve surfed there twice, I'm surprised as normally i would have a few dozen fun sessions at this spot.
Pic: Louise Bennett Jones
Any classic sessions?
Yes! One day in particular. I had been down the beach for the whole day working and the swell was so wobbly and it just looked horrible. The wind was strong onshore and it was rainy and windy and cold, there was nothing making me keen for it at all. Then about 20 minutes before i was to finish my shift i saw this bomb of a wave come out of nowhere and it spat so hard, like the hardest spitting wave i’ve ever seen in Jersey…so i thought maybe ill just wait because that one looked amazing. Two minutes later another came through and i just knew i had to go in. After paddling out the wind completely disappeared and the water was that oily texture (if you know you know) it goes when it’s completely still. I surfed for 2 hours lost one of my flippers coming out of a barrel before the close out, so i got out, ran to my car for a replacement and went back in for another hour, it was 4-5 ft and super boosty so i couldn't say no. So much fun!
What were you doing for work?
I work for the RNLI as a Beach Lifeguard. It’s a great job, i spend most of the day out on the water practising on the Rescue Boards, which are actually great fun to surf when the waves are small. I have a little challenge with my self to try to paddle those boards out on the biggest days, normally i have to swim in for about 200m because a huge set landed in front of me (it’s a very flat surfaced beach).
Pic: Megan Phippen
What other activities happens during the summer in Jersey?
I really enjoy kayaking so i spend some time doing that, long distance and surf ski paddling is really good for fitness. It’s a full body workout. I love going out on the surf-ski, its cool being able to surf the wind swell from one head land to another or simply just blasting around on it. Rock jumping is an obvious one, Jersey has so many cool places to explore around the coast, there’s caves, rock jumps, underwater arches, you name it, i love it! Im also very interested in Photography and spend a lot of time swimming around the line up when its small taking photos of the boys. I get really excited calling people into waves and i enjoy watching the stand up crew doing there massive airs in waste high conditions, it’s sik! . Also the shore break photography is too much fun… :)
Whats the plans for the rest of the year?
Im living in Liverpool, doing my MSc degree. It is annoying being so far away from the waves but it’s actually pretty convenient as the flights from here onto Ireland and Scotland are really cheap. So it’s quality over quantity for the next year. Yew!
- October 27, 2016
- Guy Sowry